メナHey, I’m Mena — I work with both mechanical and electrical sides of bikes, and this one comes from personal experience: nothing kills a ride faster than watching your phone’s GPS die mid-route because you forgot to charge it the night before. Once you add power to the bike itself, that problem just goes away for good.
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If all you need is phone charging, a simple direct-wired USB-A or USB-C port is enough. If you’re running a GPS, dash cam, and phone at the same time, a cigarette-socket-style port or a dedicated accessory power hub is the more flexible route. I kept this list to products I could actually verify are sold in the US — seven real options rather than padding it out to round numbers.
That’s five main chargers plus two accessory-side add-ons, split across Daytona, Kaedear, Oxford Products, and Kuryakyn, compared on output style, port count, and mounting type. Figure out which electronics you actually want powered on your bike first — the right pick tends to fall out of that pretty quickly.
Bottom Line: Which One Should You Buy?
Quick version first: if phone charging is the only goal, go with a direct USB-A port. If you’re also running a tablet or GPS that needs real wattage, look at the USB-C PD options. If you’re adding several electrical accessories at once, pair a charger with an accessory power hub instead of tapping the wiring loom repeatedly.
| Product | Type | Output | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Daytona 79003 | USB-A + cigar socket combo | 12V (socket) / USB-A | riders who already own a car-style socket charger |
| Daytona 93039-equiv. | USB-A direct (1 port) | 5V/2.1A | simple phone charging, brake-switch linked |
| Kaedear KDR-M3-AA | SAE, USB-A x2 | 18W per port | fast phone/GPS charging without a brake-switch tap |
| Oxford EL102 | hardwired, USB-A x2 | 5V/2A combined | a tidy, permanent dual-USB install |
| Kaedear KDR-M3D | SAE clamp, USB-A + USB-C | 18W (A) / 30W (C) | mixing a phone and a tablet-class device |
| Kuryakyn 2328 | wiring + relay kit (accessory) | – | adding any 12V accessory safely, isolated circuit |
| Daytona D-UNIT | accessory power hub (accessory) | up to 20A total | running several 12V accessories from one hub |
5 Motorcycle USB Power & Cigarette Socket Options Worth Adding to Your Bike
Daytona 79003 USB & Cigar Socket Combo Power Supply
メナThis one’s basically two chargers in one housing — the cigar socket means you can keep using whatever car charger or socket-plug gadget you already own, USB port included as a bonus.
| Brand | Daytona |
|---|---|
| Ports | 1x USB-A + 1x cigarette lighter socket |
| Build | Made in Japan, weatherproof cover |
| Best for | riders who already own a car-style cigarette-socket charger or accessory |
This is Daytona’s combo unit: a USB-A port and a standard cigarette lighter socket in the same weatherproof housing. If you’ve already got a car-style socket charger, phone mount, or tire inflator sitting in a drawer, this is the one that lets you keep using it on the bike instead of buying a USB-only replacement.
It’s a straightforward battery-to-accessory power supply — no PD, no quick-charge protocol, just a reliable 12V feed split two ways. That makes it the least fussy option on this list if all you want is somewhere to plug things in.
This is a US-market export SKU without its own daytona.co.jp catalog page, so no manufacturer-official photo is available; retail/marketplace images aren’t used under our sourcing policy, so no image is included for this item.
Daytona Motorcycle USB Charger for Handlebar (1 Port)
メナWire this into your brake switch and the port only powers up when the key’s on — no slow trickle drain if the bike sits for a week.
| Brand | Daytona |
|---|---|
| Ports | USB Type-A x1 |
| Output | 5V / 2.1A |
| Main-key linkage | yes, via brake-switch connection |
| Mount | handlebar clamp, fits O 22.2/25.4mm |
This is Daytona’s standard single-port USB-A charger, and 5V/2.1A covers ordinary phone charging without issue. It connects through the brake switch, so power to the USB port is tied to your ignition — no standby draw eating into your battery while the bike is parked.
It won’t fast-charge a tablet, but for the simple job of keeping a phone topped up on a ride, it’s a clean, no-frills pick with a weatherproof cap over the port.
Kaedear KDR-M3-AA Dual USB-A Power Supply (SAE)
メナSAE means you can unplug the whole unit in seconds and bring it inside for winter storage — no tools, no digging through wiring.
| Brand | Kaedear |
|---|---|
| Ports | USB Type-A x2 |
| Output | 5V/3A, 9V/2A, or 12V/1.5A (18W) per port |
| Water resistance | IP67 |
| Connection | SAE quick-connect harness (battery direct) |
Kaedear connects straight to the battery through an SAE harness, so it’s not tied to a brake switch or any particular connector type on your bike. Two USB-A ports each push up to 18W, enough to fast-charge a phone or keep a GPS unit topped up while it’s actively navigating.
The IP67 rating and illuminated port cap are the standout details — the lit-up port makes lining up a cable in the dark much less of a fumble. If your bike doesn’t have a convenient brake-switch tap point, the SAE-to-battery approach here sidesteps that problem entirely.
Oxford EL102 Weatherproof Dual Port USB Charger
メナOxford’s been making motorcycle touring gear in the UK for decades — this dual charger is a hardwired unit rather than a socket plug-in, so it’s less “universal” but more permanent once it’s in.
| Brand | Oxford Products |
|---|---|
| Ports | USB Type-A x2 |
| Output | 5V / 2A combined |
| Harness | 1.2m lead with 10A fuse |
| Mount | handlebar up to 25mm, or mirror-stem/panel adapters included |
Oxford Products is a long-established UK motorcycle-accessory brand, and this dual-port charger wires directly to a 12V source rather than plugging into a cigarette socket. That means a slightly more involved install, but a tidier, more weatherproof result once it’s done — the heavy cap keeps moisture out even though Oxford itself doesn’t rate it for riding in active rain.
It ships with mounting adapters for mirror stems and panels in addition to the standard handlebar clamp, which is handy if your cockpit is already crowded. The 10A in-line fuse is a nice bit of insurance against a wiring mistake frying anything downstream.
Kaedear KDR-M3D Clamp-Mount USB-A + USB-C Charger
メナOne port for your phone, one for a tablet or fast-charging device — having both a QC3.0 Type-A and a 30W PD Type-C on the same clamp covers almost anything you’d actually bring on a ride.
| Brand | Kaedear |
|---|---|
| Ports | USB Type-A (QC3.0, 18W) + USB Type-C (PD, 30W) |
| Mount | handlebar clamp, O 22.2/25.4mm |
| Connection | SAE harness, 183mm lead |
| Water resistance | sliding waterproof cap, rain/outdoor-parking rated |
This is Kaedear’s clamp-mount unit, and the mixed-port setup is the reason it earns a spot here: USB-A handles QC3.0 devices at 18W while the USB-C side pushes a genuine 30W PD, enough for larger devices that a plain USB-A port would charge painfully slowly.
Like the KDR-M3-AA above, it runs off an SAE harness rather than a brake-switch tap, and the clamp mount fits standard 7/8″ to 1″ bars without needing a dedicated mounting bracket. The sliding waterproof cap is rated for parking outdoors and riding in the rain, not just splash resistance.
Accessories & Add-Ons
If you’re adding more than one USB port, or wiring in non-USB accessories like heated grips or a dash cam alongside your charger, these two parts are what make the wiring side manageable instead of a mess of taps into your factory harness.
Kuryakyn 2328 Universal Wiring & Relay Kit
メナA relay means the switch itself only carries a trickle of current — the accessory draws its power straight from the battery side, so you won’t melt a switch by overloading it.
| Brand | Kuryakyn |
|---|---|
| Function | universal 12V accessory wiring + relay kit |
| Switch | rocker switch included |
| Fit | universal, 12V applications |
If you want to add a USB charger — or any other 12V accessory — without splicing into existing wiring or risking an overloaded circuit, a wiring and relay kit like this is the honest way to do it. Kuryakyn’s kit adds an independent, fused relay circuit with its own rocker switch, so whatever you power off it stays isolated from your bike’s factory wiring.
It’s not a brake-switch coupler in the way Kijima’s harness is on the JA original — it’s a general-purpose add-a-circuit kit, originally sold for driving lights but equally happy running a USB charger or any other accessory pulling under its relay’s rating. Route it to the battery, mount the switch somewhere reachable, and you’ve got a clean power source for anything you add next.
No standalone kuryakyn.com product page could be confirmed for this part number; retail/marketplace images aren’t used under our sourcing policy, so no image is included for this item.
Daytona D-UNIT Accessory Power Supply Unit (4 Circuits, 20A)
メナOnce you’re running more than one accessory, this is the part that keeps the wiring from turning into a rat’s nest under your seat.
| Brand | Daytona |
|---|---|
| Circuits | 4 (3x bullet terminal, 1x ring terminal) |
| Total capacity | up to 20A (adjustable via internal fuses) |
| Linkage | on/off tied to the main key |
Once you’re past a single USB charger and start adding heated grips, an aftermarket meter, or a dash cam, a hub like the D-UNIT is what keeps it manageable. It pulls power directly from the battery, distributes it across four fused circuits, and switches everything on and off together with the ignition.
It’s not something to buy before you actually need it — a single USB charger from earlier in this list is plenty on its own. But the moment you’re managing two or more accessories, routing them all through one unit like this beats running four separate ad-hoc taps into your electrical system.
How to Choose a Motorcycle USB Power Supply
Cigarette socket vs. direct USB — what’s the real difference?
A cigarette-socket-style unit adds a car-style socket to the bike, and you plug whatever charger you already own into it — flexible, but you need both the socket and a charger to actually use it. A direct USB unit has the port built right in, so it works the moment it’s installed. If you’re not sure which you want, start with a direct USB unit — it’s the simpler of the two.
Output (wattage): phone-only or tablet-class devices too?
5V/2.1A-class USB-A is plenty for routine phone charging. If you’re running a tablet, a larger GPS unit, or want genuinely fast charging, look for USB-C with PD support (18-30W in this roundup). Undersized output shows up as “charging but the percentage keeps dropping” on a long ride, so check what your actual devices need before buying the cheapest option.
Waterproofing and key-linkage matter more on a bike than a car
Motorcycles see far more direct rain and wash-down exposure than a car dashboard ever does, so confirm the unit has a real weatherproof cap or an IP rating before you buy. Also check whether power is tied to your ignition or the battery directly — key-linked units avoid standby drain when you’re not riding, while battery-direct (SAE) units need you to watch parasitic draw if the bike sits for weeks at a time.
FAQ
Q. Cigarette socket or direct USB — which should I actually buy?
A. If you already own a car-style socket charger, the socket combo saves you money. If you’re starting from scratch, go direct USB — it works the day it arrives with nothing else to buy.
Q. I want to add several accessories, not just USB power. What then?
A. Pair your charger with an accessory power hub like the Daytona D-UNIT, or run a dedicated wiring-and-relay kit like the Kuryakyn 2328 for each additional accessory. Either approach keeps your factory wiring loom untouched.
Q. How waterproof does a motorcycle USB charger actually need to be?
A. At minimum, look for a real weatherproof cap over the port — every product on this list has one. An explicit IP rating (IP55/IP67, etc.) gives you more confidence riding in rain or leaving the bike parked outside.
Bottom Line
Seven real, currently-available options — five direct chargers plus two accessory-side add-ons — across output style, port count, and mounting type. If phone charging is genuinely all you need, the single-port Daytona is the simplest and cheapest way there. Running more devices, look at the dual-port Kaedear units; adding several accessories at once, bring in the D-UNIT or a wiring-and-relay kit alongside whichever charger you pick.
I’d rather hand you seven verified, real products than round the list up to a nicer-looking number with something that isn’t actually sold where you’re shopping. Pick the one that matches what you actually plug in on a ride, and you’ll stop thinking about it within a week of installing it.